Properly Supporting Gates: Our Recommended Approach

If you plan to build your own fence, one of the most critical parts is the gate. Gates face more stress than the rest of your fence because they’re constantly being opened, closed, and sometimes even leaned on. Below are the key details we’ve learned from building and fixing countless gates—so you can plan ahead and build one that lasts.

1. Common Gate Sizes

For most residential properties, we typically see:

• 4 ft. Wide Walk Gate: Great for everyday foot traffic.
• 5 ft. Wide Walk Gate: Ideal if you need to fit a push mower or a small riding mower through.

Tip: Always measure your equipment (mower, wheelbarrow, etc.) before deciding on final gate width to avoid any surprises later.

2. Hinge Side vs. Latch Side

Every gate has two sides:

• Latch Side: Where the gate locks in place when closed.
• Hinge Side: The pivot point bearing the gate’s weight.

Because the hinge side supports most of the load, it’s crucial to reinforce it properly.

 

3. Reinforcing the Hinge Side

Our strategy (which some companies disagree with) has proven to dramatically reduce call-backs and gate sagging:

1. Use Two Posts Close Together on the Hinge Side
   • If you’re using round metal posts, upgrade the hinge-side posts to a heavier gauge (e.g., schedule 20) rather than the standard 16-gauge.
   • If you’re using square metal posts, two of them placed close together is often enough support because square metal posts are typically already higher-gauge and more rigid.
2. Install Three Hinges
   • Many gates come with only two hinges. Adding a third hinge at minimal extra cost distributes weight more evenly and reduces stress on any single hinge.

 

4. Steel Bracing Instead of 2x4s

A common industry practice is to brace gates with 2x4 lumber. However, we’ve replaced countless gates that failed within months because the 2x4s warped or didn’t provide enough support.

• Our Recommendation: Steel EZBrace
  • For roughly $45, you can get a sturdy steel brace kit (often called an “EZBrace”) that fits gates up to 5 feet wide.
  • Steel braces prevent sagging and shifting far better than standard lumber braces.
  • They’re also straightforward to install and can significantly extend your gate’s lifespan.

 

5. Post Materials (Why We Don’t Recommend Treated Wood)

• Treated Wood Posts
  • We don’t recommend using treated wood posts for your hinge side because they tend to warp and eventually weaken under the repeated stress of a gate swinging.
  • While some homeowners choose them for cost reasons, we’ve found they rarely perform well in the long run, especially for gates.
• Metal Posts
  • Round or square steel posts—ideally in a heavier gauge—are far more resistant to warp, rot, and constant swinging stress.
  • Upgrading to heavier-gauge posts on the hinge side (or using a second post) reduces issues like gate sag.

6. Plan Your Parts & Materials

If you’re putting together a shopping list, here’s what you’ll want to consider:

• Hinge Posts (Metal, Heavier Gauge)
  • Round: Upgrade to schedule 20 (if the rest of the fence is 16-gauge).
  • Square: Often a heavier gauge by default; still consider doubling up on the hinge side.
• Three Gate Hinges
  • Buy hinges rated for outdoor use (galvanized or coated).
• Steel Gate Brace (EZBrace)
  • Crucial for gates up to 5 feet wide. For larger gates, an even more robust bracing system may be needed.
• Latch Hardware
  • Make sure your latch aligns with the post type and gate width.

7. What’s Next?

This post focuses on selecting materials and reinforcement. In a future blog, I’ll walk you through the actual installation steps, covering:

• Properly setting hinge posts.
• Securing hinges and adjusting them.
• Installing and aligning the steel brace.
• Ensuring your latch fits perfectly.

By following these recommendations, you’ll give your gate the best chance at staying straight and strong for years—saving you time, money, and frustration down the road.